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Wool in knitwear:
technical and cultural guide to the noblest fibres

From Merino to Alpaca, from Shetland to Mohair: how a quality sweater is born.

Discover Diana Studio wool garments

INTRODUCTION

In a world where “wool” is often a generic synonym for warm and wintry, it’s worth stopping and asking ourselves: what kind of wool are we really wearing?

Quality knitwear starts with the fiber, and each fiber has its own origin, structure, feel, and behavior on the skin.

In this article, we explore the main types of wool used in knitwear, focusing on those employed by DianaStudio, and taking a technical look at the performance and design choices that influence the creation of each garment.

INTRODUCTION

In a world where “wool” is often a generic synonym for warm and wintry, it’s worth stopping and asking ourselves: what kind of wool are we really wearing?

Quality knitwear starts with the fiber, and each fiber has its own origin, structure, feel, and behavior on the skin.

In this article, we explore the main types of wool used in knitwear, focusing on those employed by DianaStudio, and taking a technical look at the performance and design choices that influence the creation of each garment.

MERINO WOOL

Merino wool takes its name from the Merino tribe, a Berber people who settled in medieval Spain.

In the 14th century, Spain controlled the trade of this precious wool with very strict laws: exporting a Merino sheep was punishable by death.

It was only in the 18th century that the first flocks were exported to Australia and New Zealand, where even finer varieties developed thanks to the climate and genetic selection.

Today, extrafine Merino is the gold standard for high-end knitwear, thanks to its finesse and versatility.

SHETLAND WOOL

Originating from the Shetland Islands, off the coast of Scotland, this wool has spanned the centuries as the fiber of the Nordic people.

It was spun and woven directly in the homes of the islands, in cold and humid environments, and used to create the famous Fair Isle sweaters, multicoloured geometric patterned jumpers, also made iconic by King Edward VIII in the 1820s.

The Shetland breed produces a strong, natural fibre, often in undyed colours, thanks to the chromatic variety of the fleece.

ALPACA

The alpaca is a sacred animal in Inca culture, raised for over 5,000 years in the Andean highlands of Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.

Considered the “fiber of the gods”, the alpaca was reserved for the noble castes and emperors.

There are two main varieties:

  • Huacaya: fluffy fleece, fuller hand
  • Suri: silky, shiny and rare fur

Fun fact : Each alpaca produces about 2–3 kg of fiber per year and must be sheared regularly for its well-being.

Characteristics:

  • Smooth and shiny hand
  • High thermal insulation, light weight
  • Not very elastic

The fiber is hypoallergenic, lanolin-free, and 5 times warmer than traditional wool.

MOHAIR

VIRGIN WOOL: WHAT IS IT?

The term "virgin wool" refers to wool that has never been used or regenerated. It is a new fiber, directly from shearing to industrial processing.

This doesn't automatically imply high quality: it can be a coarse or fine wool. However, it does guarantee that it hasn't been recycled.

It differs from “recycled wool” or regenerated wool, which has very different performances in terms of durability, elasticity and cohesion.

VIRGIN WOOL: WHAT IS IT?

The term "virgin wool" refers to wool that has never been used or regenerated. It is a new fiber, directly from shearing to industrial processing.

This doesn't automatically imply high quality: it can be a coarse or fine wool. However, it does guarantee that it hasn't been recycled.

It differs from “recycled wool” or regenerated wool, which has very different performances in terms of durability, elasticity and cohesion.

WHY DO MANY KNITTED SWEATERS INCLUDE SYNTHETIC FIBERS?

Some garments contain blends of polyamide, polyester, or elastane. This isn't always a "low-cost" choice: sometimes it's a design decision to increase the garment's functionality or stability.

The main reasons are:

  • Greater resistance to washing
  • Need for different fit and shape retention
  • Aesthetic appearance or special effects, mainly on the collar, ruffle or cuffs.

CONCLUSION

Knowing wool means deciphering the true quality of a garment.

Behind the word "wool" lie different worlds: some finer, some more durable, some lustrous, some matte, some perfect for direct contact, others for layering.

At DianaStudio we choose each fiber not for fashion, but for consistency with its function, its value and its durability over time.

It is the thread, before the color or the shape, that tells the difference.

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