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Wool in knitwear:
a technical and cultural guide to the finest fibers

From Merino to Alpaca, from Shetland to Mohair: how a quality sweater is made.

Discover the Diana Studio wool collection

INTRODUCTION

In a world where “wool” is often a generic synonym for warm and wintry, it is worth pausing to ask: what kind of wool are we actually wearing?

Quality knitwear starts with the fiber, and every fiber has its own origin, structure, hand-feel, and behavior on the skin.

In this article, we explore the main types of wool used in knitwear, with a focus on those used by DianaStudio, and a technical look at the performance and design choices that influence the creation of every garment.

INTRODUCTION

In a world where “wool” is often a generic synonym for warm and wintry, it is worth pausing to ask ourselves: what type of wool are we actually wearing?

Quality knitwear starts with the fiber, and every fiber has its own origin, structure, feel, and behavior on the skin.

In this article, we explore the main types of wool used in knitwear, with a focus on those employed by DianaStudio, and a technical look at the performance and design choices that influence the creation of each garment.

MERINO WOOL

Merino wool takes its name from the Merinos tribe, a Berber people who settled in medieval Spain.

In the 14th century, Spain controlled the trade of this precious wool with very strict laws: exporting a Merino sheep was punishable by death.

It was only in the 18th century that the first flocks were exported to Australia and New Zealand, where even finer varieties developed thanks to the climate and genetic selection.

Today, extra-fine Merino is the gold standard for high-end knitwear, thanks to its fineness and versatility.

SHETLAND WOOL

Originating from the Shetland Islands, off the coast of Scotland, this wool has endured through the centuries as the fiber of the Nordic people.

It was spun and woven directly in the islanders' homes, in cold and damp environments, and used to create the famous Fair Isle sweaters, multicoloured garments with geometric patterns, which were also made iconic by King Edward VIII in the 1920s.

The Shetland breed produces a durable, natural fiber, often in undyed colors, thanks to the chromatic variety of the fleece.

ALPACA

The alpaca is a sacred animal in Incan culture, raised for over 5,000 years on the Andean plateaus of Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.

Considered the "fiber of the gods," alpaca was reserved for noble castes and emperors.

There are two main varieties:

  • Huacaya: fluffy fleece, fuller hand
  • Suri: silky, lustrous, and rare fleece

Fun fact: each alpaca produces about 2–3 kg of fiber per year and must be shorn regularly for its well-being..

Characteristics:

  • Smooth and lustrous hand
  • High thermal insulation, lightweight
  • Low elasticity

The fiber is hypoallergenic, free of lanolin, and 5 times warmer than traditional wool.

MOHAIR

VIRGIN WOOL: WHAT IS IT?

The term “virgin wool” refers to wool that has never been used or regenerated. It is a new fiber, taken directly from shearing to the industrial process.

It does not automatically imply high quality: it can be coarse or fine wool. However, it is a guarantee that it has not been recycled.

It is distinct from “recycled wool” or regenerated wool, which has very different performance characteristics in terms of durability, elasticity, and cohesion.

VIRGIN WOOL: WHAT IS IT?

The term “virgin wool” indicates wool that has never been used or regenerated. It is a new fiber, going directly from shearing to the industrial process.

It does not automatically imply high quality: it can be coarse or fine wool. However, it is a guarantee that it has not been recycled.

It is distinguished from “recycled wool” or regenerated wool, which has very different performance characteristics in terms of durability, elasticity, and cohesion.

WHY DO MANY KNITTED SWEATERS INCLUDE SYNTHETIC FIBERS?

Some garments feature blends with polyamide, polyester, or elastane. This is not always a "low-cost" choice: sometimes it is a design decision intended to increase the garment's functionality or stability.

The main reasons are:

  • Greater resistance to washing
  • Need for a different fit and shape retention
  • Aesthetic appearance or special effects, mainly on the collar, hem, or cuffs.

CONCLUSION

Knowing wools means deciphering the true quality of a garment.

Behind the word "wool" hide different worlds: some finer, others more durable, some lustrous, others matte, some perfect for direct contact, others for layering.

At DianaStudio, we choose every fiber not for fashion, but for consistency with its function, its value, and its longevity.

It is the yarn, before color or shape, that tells the difference.

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