ORIGINS AND MYTH OF CASHMERE
The word cashmere derives from Kashmir, the historical region of Central Asia from which this precious fibre was exported to Europe as early as the 19th century, when hand-knitted shawls were considered symbols of luxury and prestige.
The fiber comes from the undercoat (duvet) of the Hircus goat, which in the extreme climates of the mountains develops a very fine coat to protect itself from the intense cold.
Unlike sheep's wool, cashmere is not obtained by shearing the animal: it is combed by hand during the spring moulting period.
This harvesting method, combined with the extremely small quantity of fibre per garment (around 150–200 grams per year), explains the exclusivity and historical value of cashmere.
WHY CASHMERE IS SO SPECIAL
A goat produces about 150–200g of fibre per year, hence its rarity and high value.
Cashmere fiber has a microscopically hollow structure , which traps air and acts as a natural insulator: it retains up to 8 times more heat than sheep's wool of the same weight. This makes it ideal for cold environments while remaining extremely light to wear.
Cashmere doesn't overheat : it maintains a constant body temperature, avoiding the "boil-and-freeze" effect of many synthetic fibers. It's therefore perfect for both deep winter (as a base layer or heavy sweater) and transitional seasons, when paired with lighter yarns or blends.
Excellent breathability - The fiber allows the skin to breathe, promoting the dispersion of moisture . Comfort is maximum even for those who, for example, walk a lot or travel frequently, because the skin remains dry and the body balanced .
THE MAIN CASHMERE PRODUCING COUNTRIES
MONGOLIA: The most prized cashmere in the world for its purity and length.
Production area : central and north-eastern steppes (Dornogovi, Gobi-Altai, Arkhangai)
- Altitude : 1,000–1,500 m
- Climate : continental, winters down to –40°C
- Fiber : very fine (15–16 microns), long, shiny, light (natural white or beige)
Mongolia accounts for about 30–35% of the world's cashmere in terms of quality (but less in quantity).
The fibers are often undyed, and processed locally by companies like Gobi Cashmere.
CHINA (Inner Mongolia): The world's largest producer of cashmere.
Production area : inland provinces (Nei Mongol, Gansu, Ningxia)
- Altitude : variable, between 600 and 1,800 m
- Fiber : Very variable in quality — from 14.5 up to 19 microns
China produces about 65–70% of global cashmere, but not all of it is top grade.
The main difference is between the industrial supply chain (mass market) and small quality farms.
Large spinning mills such as Consinee Group operate in China with a wide range of yarns.
INDIA – Kashmir, Ladakh: Historical cradle of the term “cashmere”, home of pashmina.
Production area : Ladakh and Kashmir highlands
- Fiber : among the thinnest in the world (12–14 microns) but more fragile
- Tradition : hand weaving, hand-embroidered shawls
Pashmina is an ultralight cashmere, often woven into a stole or shawl, with great artisanal value. It is less common in modern knitwear because it is less suited to machine spinning.
AFGHANISTAN / IRAN / PAKISTAN: Rustic, durable cashmere with good thermal insulation.
- Climate: mountainous and arid
- Fiber: slightly thicker, often used in blends or for non-luxury garments
- Use: carded or regenerated cashmere
Here the supply chain is less structured, but interesting stocks can be found at more accessible prices.
They are also used for the production of regenerated cashmere and mixed yarns.
Important note on traceability
Globally, only a small portion of cashmere is traceable : fibers often get mixed up in the harvesting, transportation, and spinning processes.
TYPES OF CASHMERE
Quality varies greatly depending on fineness, length and purity, giving rise to 3 macro-levels of yarn:
- Grade A : long, thin fibre, of the highest quality and dedicated exclusively to high-end knitwear.
- Grade B : medium quality but still pleasant to the touch and with good durability over time.
- Grade C : short, less compact fibres for mass-market industrial production.
Each classification impacts the performance of the garment and its cost
HOW CASHMERE IS PRODUCED
The production cycle includes:
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Spring hairstyle
The fibre is collected manually during the natural moulting period, without stressing the animal.
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Manual sorting
Only the longest and finest fibres are selected, determining the fineness and value of the yarn.
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Washing and degreasing
It removes impurities and lanolin while preserving elasticity, softness and insulating properties.
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Industrial combing
It aligns and evens out the fibers, eliminating the short ones that would compromise quality.
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Spinning and dyeing
It transforms the fibre into a stable yarn, defining resistance, colour rendering and durability over time.
Each step influences the quality of the final yarn.
REGENERATED CASHMERE
Regenerated cashmere is the textile industry's response to an increasingly pressing need: to produce sustainably .
It's made from recycled garments or textile production waste. The fibers are reprocessed, separated, and transformed back into yarn.
It is a virtuous practice from an environmental point of view:
Reduces waste and extends the life cycle of the fiber
It requires less water and energy than new production
Promote the circular economy in the fashion sector
However, there are objective limits :
The recovered fibres are shorter, less elastic and resistant
The yarn tends to be less compact, with a greater risk of pilling if not worked using very precise techniques
Durability is less than that of a top grade virgin cashmere
For these reasons, regenerated cashmere is suitable for a conscious consumer, but it must always be communicated clearly.
When Diana Studio chooses to use regenerated fibers, it does so in dedicated capsules , with transparency and traceability, to promote an internal circular economy aimed at the almost total elimination of waste.
THE BEST CASHMERE SPINNING SPINNINGS
Among the most renowned spinning mills that process cashmere we find:
Italy
- Loro Piana – A pioneer in the production of baby cashmere (obtained from the first combing of goats), it is famous for its traceable supply chain and for the absolute excellence of its fine fabrics.
- Cariaggi – Specializing in worsted spinning, it offers pure cashmere with high ecological standards.
- Biagioli Modesto – Known for its use of natural dyes and selected, high-quality fibers.
- The Yarn Set – Modern, compact yarns ideal for refined blended garments.
International
- Gobi Cashmere (Mongolia) – Local supply chain, sustainability, undyed and hand-picked cashmere.
- Consinee Group (China) – One of the largest global players, it processes high volumes with diversified quality.
- Safilin (France) – Renowned for innovative blends with natural fibers, including eco-friendly cashmere.
Each spinning mill has its own identity, and DianaStudio collaborates only with certified companies capable of combining research, aesthetics, and responsibility.
CONCLUSIONS
Cashmere is a precious, refined, yet complex fiber. Simply calling it "soft" isn't enough: we must understand its origins, limitations, potential, and the human value behind it.
With DianaStudio, every garment is a choice: of raw materials, of the supply chain, of the time dedicated to creating the product. In a market where the term "cashmere" is often overused, knowledge becomes the first step towards sustainability.
Telling the truth about cashmere is a gesture of respect towards those who wear it—and towards those who work every day to make it eternal.