Crew Neck Sweater in extrafine Merino Wool and Cashmere
Regular price
€139,90
WASHING IS NOT JUST WASHING
WASHING IS NOT JUST WASHING
What happens to a jersey between the knitting machine and the closet.
WHEN A SHIRT IS NOT YET A SHIRT
A sweater just off the machine is not yet the garment you will wear. In knitwear, this is called a raw garment: the stitches are tight, the hand is stiff, and the measurements are not yet definitive.
Before reaching the collection, it undergoes washing. Not a domestic wash, but an industrial finishing phase, one of the most delicate parts of the entire process.
Two garments made with the same yarn, on the same machine, can turn out completely different simply based on how they were washed.
WHY DO YOU WASH A NEW GARMENT
Washing something that no one has worn yet seems contradictory.
It serves four specific purposes.
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Clean
Knitting yarns are often oiled or waxed to slide through the needles without breaking. Those residues must be removed; otherwise, they remain in the garment and alter its hand and color.
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Relax the fibers
After weaving, the yarn is still under tension. Water and heat allow the stitches to settle into their natural position.
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Stabilize the measures
Every knitted garment changes size after washing. The point is to make it change here, in the knitting mill, in a controlled and calculated manner during the design phase. This is the reason why a well-made garment maintains its shape over time.
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Building the hand
Every knitted garment changes size after washing. The point is to make it change here, in the knitting mill, in a controlled and calculated manner during the design phase. It is the reason why a well-made garment maintains its shape over time.
In comparison
- Yarn
- 90% extrafine merino wool and 10% cashmere, 14-gauge knit.
- 40% merino wool, 30% cashmere and 30% nylon, 7-gauge knit.
- Washing effect
- The most open finesse gives way to cashmere, which relaxes in water.
- Nylon further opens the yarn without compromising the structure.
- Result
- A soft and profound hand on a smooth and essential surface.
- A soft and airy hand, with the blended color of mouliné.
EACH GARMENT HAS ITS OWN WASHING INSTRUCTIONS
Washing is not a one-size-fits-all operation. Temperature, duration, machine movement, and the products used change depending on the yarn and the desired result.
Too little heat leaves the garment stiff. Too much movement felts wool irreversibly.
These combinations are refined during sampling, when working on a new yarn or structure, and the result is achieved through successive trials.
Once found, they are recorded and repeated: this is what ensures that every garment is identical to the approved one.
In some of our garments, the choice is made even earlier, starting with the thread.
A cashmere blend worked on 14 gauge instead of 16 allows the fiber to open up more during washing, gaining softness and depth. In others, a percentage of nylon serves exactly the same purpose.
Washing does not come after: it is part of the design.
After the water comes drying and steam ironing, which set the final measurements. Then the inspection, garment by garment.
WHEN WASHING TRANSFORMS THE GARMENT
In some cases, washing does not just finish a garment: it changes it. And here, too, the decision comes first, when the garment is designed.
FULLING
A controlled felting process. The wool fibers interlock: the knit compacts, shrinks, and gains body, eventually resembling a fabric. On a cable-knit structure, the design emerges in relief.
BRUSHING
A raising of the pile. The fibers are brushed on the surface: the knit becomes soft and airy, and the air trapped in the pile makes it warmer. On yarns like alpaca, it enhances their natural qualities.
In all cases, the measurement on the machine is calculated based on the expected shrinkage: the garment is created already knowing how it will be washed.
DIANASTUDIO GARMENT CARE
[SECTION TO BE COMPLETED]
AND AT HOME?
Washing
- Before washing, consider whether airing the garment is sufficient: hang it on a hanger in a well-ventilated area for a few hours.
- Light stains: dab with a clean cloth and cold water.
- If washing is necessary: hand wash or machine wash on a wool/delicate cycle at 30°C, garment inside out, low agitation, mild detergent. For wool/cashmere, use a specific soap.
- Avoid hot water, bleach, and prolonged rubbing. Always follow the individual garment's label.
Drying
- Remove excess water by rolling the garment in a towel (do not wring).
- Dry flat at room temperature, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. No tumble drying.
- Gently reshape the garment while damp to maintain its form and measurements.
Iron / Steam
- If necessary, use steam or a low-temperature iron; avoid direct contact with the knit.
- If ironing, always place a damp cloth between the iron and the fabric.
Use & Maintenance
- Alternate use (wool/cashmere): do not wear the same garment two days in a row to let the fibers rest.
- Any pilling: remove with a small comb or a quality fabric shaver, without pulling.
Conservation
- Store garments folded, not hung.
- Keep in a cool, dry place, away from direct light.
- For long periods, use breathable cotton garment bags and natural moth repellents (cedar, lavender).
In quality knitwear, there are no accessory steps. Washing is not the stage that fixes things at the end: it is one of the stages in which the garment is constructed, just as much as the choice of yarn or the weaving.
A sweater that stays in shape for years is not a lucky coincidence. It is the result of decisions made long before it reached your closet.
